Shrine · Tenma / Minamimorimachi
Osaka Tenmangu 大阪天満宮
Osaka's beloved "Tenjin-san", the shrine of the scholar-god Sugawara no Michizane and home of the Tenjin Matsuri, one of Japan's three great festivals, when over 100 boats and fireworks fill the Okawa River every 24-25 July.
About
Founded in 949 on the spot where Michizane is said to have prayed before his exile to Kyushu, Osaka Tenmangu gave its name to the whole Tenma district and to Tenjinbashisuji, the 2.6 km shopping arcade that starts at its back gate. The present main hall dates from 1843, rebuilt after the Oshio Heihachiro uprising burned much of the city, and its gates are richly carved with zodiac animals and a famous ceiling of directional signs on the Omote-mon. As at all Tenmangu, students crowd in before exams to buy pencils and gokaku charms and hang ema plaques, and around 100 plum trees bloom in February. The real draw is the Tenjin Matsuri on 24 and 25 July: a land procession in Heian-period costume, then a river procession of more than 100 illuminated boats, with fireworks over the Okawa and Noh and bunraku performed on floating stages. The shrine also runs Tenma Tenjin Hanjotei, a rakugo comedy hall, a few steps north.
Highlights
- Main hall rebuilt in 1843 with elaborate carved gates
- The zodiac compass (eho) carved on the main gates ceiling; find your birth year animal
- Tenjin Matsuri river procession and fireworks, 24-25 July
- Plum blossoms in February and exam-season ema walls
- Back gate opens straight onto Tenjinbashisuji, Japan's longest shopping arcade
Tips
- Walk Tenjinbashisuji from Tenjinbashisuji 6-chome station south to the shrine for snacks and old shops along the way.
- For the Tenjin Matsuri, stake out a riverside spot near Tenmabashi or Sakuranomiya bridge from mid-afternoon on the 25th.
- Catch an afternoon rakugo show at Tenma Tenjin Hanjotei next door; even without Japanese the timing and gestures entertain.
- Look up when passing through the Omote-mon to find the zodiac ceiling, which most people miss.
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